VICTORIA'S
GREATEST DRIVING TOURS AND HERITAGE TOWNS
WEEKEND DRIVE...SHIPWRECK COAST & Great Ocean Road
WHY GO: the Shipwreck Coast to the Twelve Apostles is, in this Victoirian's opinion, the world’s greatest scenic drive. So much more than
just a day's drive - go for at least a long weekend.
DISTANCE: approx 500km return to Port Campbell.
TIME: take your time: at least 5 hours driving each way makes
a leisurely trip via Great Ocean Road - plus sightseeing..
ROUTE: Princes Hwy through Geelong, then Great Ocean Road from
Torquay with detours to other attractions. Alternative inland
return via Timboon, Cobden to Princes Hwy and then to Birregurra,
Deans Marsh and Lorne.
WHAT TO DO: once you leave the frenetic pace of Torquay, Anglesea
and Lorne on weekends, you enter the eastern Otways where steep,
forest-cloaked ranges descend to the water’s edge. This
is the realm of postcards and travel shows, so open the sunroof
and ease up on the gas. Take advantage of numerous parking bays
along the roadside and cruise the winding road through the numerous
small communities that nestle between bush and beach. Imagine
the hardships of building this road with pick and shovel in the
early 1900s.
Apollo Bay has been revamped in the last few years and is a good
place to have a break – visit the bakery for refreshments,
then turn left at the golf course. The harbour is invariably a
tranquil scene and there’s sure to be anglers trying their
luck. A fishing boat may be unloading its catch of crays or king
crabs; there’s a good swimming beach on the town side of
the carpark.
As you pass through Marengo the road leaves the coast and rises
into tall-timbered ranges that symbolize the Otways. About twenty
minutes away, take the Lighthouse Road to Cape Otway, pay an entrance
fee and walk a couple of hundred metres to the 1848 lightstation.
Whitewashed cottages huddle near the base of the lighthouse, and
it’s possible to climb to the original light for some excellent
views along the coast. A worthwhile guided tour is available;
cottages have been converted to tourist accommodation and there’s
a café offering light meals. This is a good time to scan
the shipwreck book you (might have) bought at the entrance gate, for the coast
from here to Nelson is littered with 19th Century maritime disasters.
Continue through the ranges then descend into the pretty valleys
of Glen Aire and the Gellibrand River. From here the Shipwreck
Coast is marked by roadside signs indicating some of the 150 wreck
sites. Nearby is Moonlight Head where a salvaged anchor is concreted
in the rocky foreshore, but it’s only accessible along the
beach at low tide after negotiating innumerable steps. Just past
Princetown, the instantly recognisable Twelve Apostles (I reckon eight remain) tower above the surging
blue swells. A visitor centre has been built inland, and here
you must park your car before proceeding to the viewing areas.
It’s a long walk for the elderly in particular, and there
seems no provision for the disabled to actually see Victoria’s
greatest natural icons.
It is the wreck of the Loch Ard that stands apart from the others,
and the tale of the two young survivors bears contemplation. Admire
the views of Loch Ard Gorge, but take the steps to the beach;
it was here that Tom Pierce was washed ashore before glimpsing
then saving Eva Carmichael. They recuperated at nearby Glenample
Station (a historic homestead sometimes open for viewing) but
the tale ends with a whimper. A clifftop cemetery marks the burial
place of the few bodies recovered from the sea in 1878.
Port Campbell is another fishing village turned coastal resort
in recent years. Stay at Waves in the main street, or Shearwater
Haven just through town. Head towards Peterborough and make sure
you stop at The Arch, London Bridge, Bay of Martyrs, and Bay of
Islands viewing areas. A range of walking tracks has been developed
around the Port Campbell area, so call in at the visitor centre
and get a map. This storm-lashed coast also produces some fascinating
beachcombing.
You can either retrace your route from here, continue to Warrnambool,
or head inland through the new gourmet food trail to Timboon, Cobden and then the Princes Hwy. A new rail trail is being developed here, due for completion some time early 2008.
EATING AND DRINKING: towns and hamlets along the way have shops,
pubs and cafés. Lunch at Cape Otway lighthouse is recommended
because it’s so peaceful - and it’ll be in good time
if you started out early; another couple of hours driving and
two hours of sightseeing will find early dinner at Waves in Port
Campbell a good option. This leaves good time for catching sunset
at the Bay of Islands, before returning to your chosen Australian Places accommodation.
copyright Peter Robinson 2007 all rights reserved
see Great Ocean Road images at www.australianplaces.net
For the past
25 years Peter Robinson has travelled far and wide but Australia,
being home, is his first love. As an experienced travel writer
and professional photographer, his wealth of knowledge is revealed
in travel and accommodation reviews that have freelance integrity
and honesty. The main focus of this site is to present brief reviews
of a select group of places to stay for the weekend. Each place
has been visited at least once and evaluated for high standards
before inclusion - and after reviewing over 600 places Peter has
done the hard work so you can enjoy Great
Weekends Away.
