Victoria's best Sunday Drives & heritage towns

VICTORIA'S GREATEST DRIVING TOURS AND HERITAGE TOWNS

WEEKEND DRIVE... Ararat

WHY GO: A town where 19th Century Chinese diggers struck gold first has retained its significant heritage - despite its past being somewhat chequered. Today, Ararat has something of interest for everyone.

DISTANCE FROM MELBOURNE: About 200 kilometres one-way.

TIME: If travelling direct to Ararat it will take a little over two hours one way. With en route attractions to visit, allow a full day for relaxed touring. Make it a long weekend if you also head for the Grampians.

ROUTE: The Western Freeway provides easy and quick access to the far side of Ballarat and you’ll continue on the undivided highway section through Beaufort and Buangor to Ararat. A short scenic detour for the return, if you have time, heads east through Warrak and past Mount Buangor State Park then back to the highway at Buangor.

ON THE WAY: First port of call should be Beaufort, marked by its central bandstand, and you could have morning tea here or a quick drive of the back streets – note the antiquated shops, and quaint signal box near the railway station. Further along the highway at Buangor is the bluestone-built Cobb & Co horse changing station, a reminder of times when transport used less horsepower.

WHAT TO DO: In Ararat, if you have a sense for the macabre head straight for J Ward, the former prison and institution for the criminally insane. On Sundays there are tours (phone 5352 3357) every hour from 10 a.m. and this is the best way to get an understanding of bare survival – and death – behind the gaol’s walls since the “open for business” shingle was hung in 1861.

When gold was discovered by a party of Chinese in 1857 it brought over twenty thousand diggers to the incredibly rich Canton Lead. At this rate it didn’t take long for Ararat’s shanty town to be established, and deep lead mining proved profitable over disparate decades. The Gum San Chinese Heritage Centre traces the journey of miners from southern China the mid-1800s, their arrival at Robe in South Australia and harsh, dangerous 500 kilometre overland trek to the diggings. Racial and social discrimination against the Chinese was rife in those frenetic days, and a Poll Tax of twenty pounds was imposed on all “Celestials” entering the Victorian colony.

Those interested in historic architecture will find Ararat’s streets remarkable; don’t miss Pyrenees House (part of the hospital) in Girdlestone Street, the Town Hall, Shire Hall, Court House, the mansion “Dominica,” and Aradale Mental Hospital – fear not, it is closed. Yet another museum worth a visit is Langi Morgala which holds Ararat history and Aboriginal artefacts.

If the weather’s fine head for One Tree Hill lookout, where far-ranging views to the Grampians, Bendigo and surrounding ranges can be enjoyed. Several local wineries are open for cellar door sales and tastings, among them Montara (Port Fairy Road), Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyard, and a little further north-west, the famed Great Western district.

EATING AND DRINKING: In fine weather you can do no better than a picnic or barbeque at Alexandra Gardens. Designed by famed Baron von Mueller, they’re complete with lake and resident bird life, glasshouse with orchid display, playground. If doing a tour of J Ward you can stay on for lunch or Devonshire tea in the gaol cafeteria. Most of the other eateries are around Barkly Street, the hub of town, and you could try the Commercial Hotel, Vines, Kerry’s Café, or Mc Donald’s Bakery.

©Peter Robinson 2007 all rights reserved

see my images at www.australianplaces.net

For the past 25 years Peter Robinson has travelled far and wide but Australia, being home, is his first love. As an experienced travel writer and professional photographer, his wealth of knowledge is revealed in travel and accommodation reviews that have freelance integrity and honesty. The main focus of this site is to present brief reviews of a select group of places to stay for the weekend. Each place has been visited at least once and evaluated for high standards before inclusion - and after reviewing over 600 places Peter has done the hard work so you can enjoy Great Weekends Away.